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Cocoloba Shoreline Scramble (Excerpted from St. John Off The Beaten Track)
The three-quarter mile Cocoloba Cay Coastal Walk takes you around Oyen Point between Fish Bay and Reef Bay on the south coast of St. John. The walk begins at the Fish Bay dock and leads to the rocks overlooking Reef Bay. There are no hills and no defined trails. From the Texaco Station in Cruz Bay, take the South Shore Road (Route 104) east to the Fish Bay Road. Go 1.7 miles to the intersection of Marina Drive and Reef Bay Road. Bear right on Marina Drive. After you pass Guavaberry Farms Nursery, the road gets a bit steep and rugged. From here to the dock a four wheel drive vehicle and off-road driving experience is highly recommended. Park near the dock at the end of the road.
This little known area in the mangroves is used by local residents with small boats and by fisherman who fish off the dock. From the dock at Fish Bay you can often see small fish and baby sharks that spend their early lives in the shallow waters near the mangroves. This is one of the largest mangrove basin forests on St. John. Many fish come here to breed. The fresh water entering from the three major guts of Fish Bay keep the salinity of the water low and the nutrient level high.
South of the dock (to your left looking out at the bay) there is a trail that leads through the mangroves. The trail ends at some large black rocks at the water's edge. There is an opening between the rocks that leads to the shoreline.
You will have arrived at a small shallow lagoon protected by offshore reef. Ocean swells often break over the reef. Surfers and boogie boarders can ride these waves in the summertime when the southerly winds are strong and the south swells wrap around the point and roll into Fish Bay. Along the edge of the small lagoon, the shoreline consists of rocks, coral rubble and patches of sand. A view of the bay opens up as the coastline curves toward the east. About fifty yards after Cocoloba Cay comes into sight, you will arrive at Cocoloba Beach.
This remote and secluded sand and coral rubble beach is probably the most private of all St. John beaches. It is an excellent location for relaxation, contemplation and reflection. Cocoloba is not good for swimming. The water is shallow with many sea urchins among the rocks. There is generally a strong current and breaking surf. On calm days though, experienced snorkelers can enter the water fairly easily, and there is good snorkeling along the reef and around Cocoloba Cay.
The beach ends at an area of large black rocks. Continuing along the rugged shoreline you will come to a point where you will be treated to views of the pristine south shore of St. John. Looking inland you will see a steep rocky hillside. Incredibly, there are century plants, cactus and sea grapes growing in this inhospitable environment where there is hardly any soil. The colorful red and white rocks in this area are unique to the south shore of the island. The red color is the result of a high iron content. This section of coast is exposed to the easterly trade winds and is usually windy. There may be some interesting flotsam washed up along the shore. Just before you get to the tip of Oyen Point that divides Fish Bay from Reef Bay, you will come to a small and secluded sandy section of shoreline surrounded by large rocks. To continue you will need to scramble over these jagged red rocks. When you get to the end of the point, you can climb higher up on the rocks for a bird's eye view. This is a secluded and dramatic setting where you will be surrounded by the sounds of wind and waves. Looking to the east, you will see the western beach at Reef Bay, called Parrot Bay. Further to the east are the Reef Bay Valley, Genti Bay, the White Cliffs, and the practically uninhabited south shore, stretching all the way to Ram Head. To the south are St. Croix and the open Caribbean. To the west is Cocoloba Cay. Looking down into the clear water you can see the rocks and reef below the surface. This is one of those increasingly rare places, where you can enjoy a beautiful panoramic view that remains completely undisturbed by development.
From here it is possible to continue climbing the rocks along the shoreline to Reef Bay, but it is difficult and can be dangerous. A better option would be to turn around and go back to the dock. |