Excerpted
from St. John Off The Beaten Track ©
2006 Gerald Singer
Ditleff Beach is a small protected
bay with a stretch of shoreline consisting of sand and broken up
pieces of coral. Hurricane Marilyn brought back the sand that Hurricane
Hugo took away, and a new layer of sand extends past the vegetation
line. One can now relax in soft sand and still enjoy the shade
produced by the maho and seagrape trees that line the beach.
If arriving by boat, Ditleff Beach lies on the eastern side of
Rendezvous Bay, about half way to the Ditleff Point headland.
Experienced snorkelers can access Ditleff Point by snorkeling
from Klein Bay.
The land access to the beach is a story in itself. While the coastlines
and beaches of the Virgin Islands are public domain, the question
of land access has not been formalized.
Historically, land access to Ditleff beach goes back to the first
inhabitants of St. John who had a settlement there some two thousand
years ago, attested to by the finding of prehistoric artifacts
uncovered in the area.
Poor whites and freed slaves lived here during colonial times.
During subsistence farming days, a family lived in a house whose
foundation still exists, lying just inland from the southern end
of the beach.
After that Ditleff Beach was used primarily as access to the sea
for fishing and the gathering of whelk and conch as well as recreationally
for swimming, snorkeling, diving and fishing. Original trails were
replaced by a bulldozed road, which, for many years, St. Johnians
and visitors used as access to the coastlines.
As of the writing of this book, the Ditleff Point peninsula is
owned by developers who have cut up the property into residential
lots, some selling for as much as $4.5 million dollars for the
raw land. The developers intend to construct a gate at the entrance
to the peninsula and close off the traditional access to the beach.
This may not be allowed to happen. On St.
Thomas, developers were fined for restricting the historical
access to Linquist Beach. But conventional wisdom is that “money talks,” and
what has traditionally been the domain of all Virgin Islanders,
may very well be restricted to a select few. Enjoy it while you
can.
From the beach, it is possible to walk along the shore towards
a dramatic rocky point. An extensive fringing reef protects the
coast and beach from the action of southeasterly swells coming
in from the Caribbean. This shallow reef also creates a series
of small tide pools. You can often observe small fish and crustaceans
within this miniature marine environment.
Further south along the coast there is a narrow shallow passage
between the peninsula are some large offshore rock formations where
small fish and marine creatures can be observed.
The sand and coral beach on the western side of Ditleff Point offers
fine snorkeling for those of all levels of experience. The water
near shore is shallow and deepens gradually, providing an easy
entry over sand and seagrass.
Beginner
Beginners can stay in the shallow, grassy area just offshore or
snorkel along the fringing reefs located on either side of the
beach. Much of the coral is in good condition and colorful. There
are many small fish to observe around and under the coral heads.
The grassy area just off the beach is a habitat for turtles,
squid, rays and starfish. If you see piles of shells around the
coral reef, look for an octopus in nearby holes or crevices.
Intermediate
Those willing to venture out a little further, can explore the
undersea grasslands of Rendezvous Bay. There are acres of grasslands
in the Ditleff Point and Rendezvous Bay areas found in about
15 feet of water. Although the basic environment does not change
much, if you snorkel this area long enough, (about 10 - 15 minutes)
you will begin to see the interesting animals that frequent the
seagrass meadows. There are many green turtles here. The larger
ones may be accompanied by remora who attach themselves to large
sea creatures such as turtles or sharks.
Also commonly seen here are rays. The southern stingray is dark
gray in color, and it is often accompanied by a jack, who swims
just above the ray. There are also at least two large, impressive
and graceful spotted eagle rays. They are black with white spots,
have a defined head and a long thin tail. You may also find conch,
starfish and squid. During the night, lobster and octopus come
out of the reef and frequent the grasslands in search of food.
Advanced
One of the most exciting snorkeling areas on St. John can be found
on the seaward side of the fringing reef, south of the beach.
Beginning about half way between the beach and the southern tip
of the point are a series of incredibly beautiful ledges formed
by the outcropping of the coral. The base of the reef is in about
15 feet of water. The ceiling of the ledge ranges from about
three to six feet and extends laterally approximately the same
distance. To appreciate this area, you must be able to dive down
to the bottom and still have enough breath to explore under the
ledge.
This is a unique and fascinating environment, combining the color
and beauty of the various corals and sponges with an abundance
of fish, eels, lobsters, octopus, shrimp, crabs, plume worms and
other creatures which are attracted to the shelter of the ledge.
The rocky area at the end of the peninsula can be explored when
the seas are calm and there is a minimum of surf breaking over
the shallow reef. This extremely exciting area is only recommended
for the experienced, confident and physically fit snorkeler.
Around and between the huge rocks are channels,
arches, underwater canyons, chambers, tunnels and “painted” walls.
As you will be in relatively open and unsheltered water, you
will probably get to see bigger fish than those commonly found
closer to shore.
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