Excerpted
from St. John Off The Beaten Track ©
2006 Gerald Singer
Brown Bay's white sand beach is almost certain to be deserted as
there is no vehicle access and the trail entrance is far from the
more populated areas of the island. Also, Brown Bay is a poor anchorage
for vessels coming by sea, so it is uncommon to see yachts at anchor
here.
When you are out hiking the trails, Brown Bay Beach
is a perfect place to cool off, relax, take a swim and explore the
ruins. There are shady places to sit, and usually a cooling ocean
breeze. This is a great spot to enjoy a picnic lunch in a natural
and private setting where you can often enjoy having such an idyllic
spot all to yourself.
(see
map)
Starting from the Coral Bay Moravian Church, go east about a mile
on the East End Road (Route 10.) After you pass Estate Zootenvaal,
you will cross a small concrete bridge. Turn left just after the
bridge and park on the dirt road. Twenty yards up the road you
will come to a fork. As Yogi Berra, the famous baseball player,
once said, "When you get to the fork in the road, take it!"
The right fork is the beginning of the Brown Bay Trail. It is a
three-quarter mile hike to the beach.
Brown Bay can also be reached
by taking the Brown Bay spur trail off the Johnny Horn Trail.
The Johnny Horn Trail connects Waterlemon Cay and the Moravian
Church in Coral Bay. The Brown Bay spur trail is not maintained
and can be very unfriendly because of the abundance of thorny "catch and keep" bushes.
Brown Bay has some of the most extensive ruins on the island of
St. John. To explore them proceed to the western end of the beach
and then make your way further along the shoreline until you see
the beginning of the ruins.
Here you will find the
remains of an estate house bearing an old concrete plaque inscribed
with the date1872 and bearing the initials "G-N".
Notice the exceptionally well-crafted stone and brickwork that
went into the construction of the old walls. You will also
find ruins from an even earlier time including a sugar factory
with its boiling room, cisterns once used for rum distillation,
an old copper boiling pot, two horsemills from different periods,
a storage building, an old well, an ox pound and two graves,
one being that of a child.
Also, an abundance of flotsam washing up along the beach makes for
excellent beachcombing.
The bottom of the bay is sand and grass, offering an easy entry.
It is quite shallow at first, but deepens gradually providing access
to excellent snorkeling further out from the beach. The snorkeling
here is best on calm days when the water is not churned up and murky.
The most colorful and interesting area to snorkel
in Brown Bay is around the point on the eastern side of the bay
where there is a relatively shallow fringing reef, which slopes
down to a depth of about twenty feet. There are several beautiful
specimens of hard corals near the top of the reef, and on the sloping
hillside is a garden of gorgonians, such as sea fans, sea whips
and sea plumes. You will often see larger fish here due to the proximity
of the deep Sir Francis Drake Channel.
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