Excerpted
from St. John Beach Guide ©
2006 Gerald Singer
Honeymoon and Salomon Beaches
exist within the same bay and are separated only by a small rocky point of land.
They both contain the magnificent qualities common to all the beaches of St.
John's north shore, but they differ from the other beaches primarily in how you
get there. You can go by boat, but almost everyone arrives by trail.
Walking along these forest paths gives you the chance to experience
the beauty and tranquility of the unspoiled interior of St. John.
Although the hike is relatively easy, there is enough of a physical
challenge to make your arrival at the beach, followed by a cooling
dip in the crystal-clear Caribbean, a sensuous and welcome reward.
Consequently, if you like the idea of taking
a trail to the beach, or if you want to experience the excellent
snorkeling described for Salomon Bay, but prefer a venue offering
a more traditional experience in terms of beach attire, Honeymoon
Bay is a fine alternative. It lies just to the east of Salomon
and enjoys the same natural beauty and fantastic views.
The snorkeling reef fringes the rocky point between the two bays
and is just as easily accessible from either beach.
Like Salomon there is no road to Honeymoon. You need to walk the
trail or go by boat.
For the shortest walk (less than a half mile, with a descent of
250 feet) to Honeymoon Beach, take Route 20 past Mongoose Junction
and up the hill. Turn left at the top of the hill where there
is a blue Virgin Islands National Park sign.
Immediately on the right hand side, is
a parking area for approximately four vehicles. Park here if
you drove. The Caneel Hill Spur Trail intersects Route 20 and
is marked with a sign that reads: "To
Lind Point Trail."
Take this trail north and downhill bearing to the right at the
Lind Point Trail junction.
The Caneel Bay Resort provides public land access to Caneel and
Honeymoon Beaches. Unlike the narrow forest trail that winds
down a rocky hillside, the dirt road from the Caneel Bay parking
lot is well-maintained and there are no hills to climb. On your
way to the beach, you can enjoy the magnificent landscaping that
borders the road.
If you would rather walk from town, Honeymoon can also be reached
by taking the Lind Point Trail. It will be a little over a mile
from Cruz Bay to Honeymoon. Follow the directions to Solomon
Bay, but when you get to the Solomon Bay spur, continue on the Lind
Point Trail instead of turning left.
Facilities available at Honeymoon include garbage cans and two
portable toilets located in front of an old block and wood structure.
Honeymoon offers the possibility of shade beneath the large maho
tree near the center of the beach or under one of the low-lying
seagrapes.
The excellent coral reef described
in the Salomon Bay chapter
lies off the rocky point on the west side of Honeymoon Beach.
Only the reef area on the west is protected by swim buoys, thus
allowing boats to come right up to the rest of the beach. As
the only north shore beach where this is permitted, Honeymoon
Bay has become a favorite destination of day charter boats, which
arrive in late morning and depart by mid afternoon.
From Honeymoon Bay you can see most of the islands that define
Pillsbury Sound. Looking from the west to the east you will see
St. Thomas, Thatch, Grass, Mingo, Lovango, Ramgoat and Henley Cays
and Jost Van Dyke, one of the British Virgin Islands. (The word "cay
is pronounced "key"
in the Virgin Islands.)
There
is a popular but untrue rumor concerning how Lovango Cay got
its name. According to the story, there was once a brothel on the
island and sailors would
"love and go." Actually, Lovango, Mingo and Congo Cays
were named after sections of Africa from which slaves were brought
to the islands.
The three small cays in the middle of the channel between St.
John and Lovango, Henley Ram Goat and Rata Cays collectively are
called the Durloe Cays after Pieter Durloe the founder of the Klein
Caneel Bay Plantation (today called Caneel Bay).
Henley
Cay was once known as Women's Cay because during the slave
revolt of 1733, surviving white women and children were placed
there to await rescue and transportation to St. Thomas. The surviving
white men made Durloe's plantation at Caneel Bay their stronghold,
which they succeeded in defending against the rebels.
In the 1940s and 1950s Henley, Ramgoat and Rata Cays (The Durloe
Cays) were owned by Roger Humphrey, the Marine commandant of the
Virgin Islands during World War II. He built the concrete storehouse
whose ruins are presently found on Henley Cay. In 1947 Humprey's
son, a navy pilot, flew his aircraft over Henley Cay. He apparently
was executing some air acrobatics, which he miscalculated, flew
too low, crashed into the cay and died. This was the first time
a plane had crashed anywhere near St. John. The wreckage of the
plane can still be seen on top of the island.
After his son's death Humphrey lost interest in further development
of Henley and rarely returned there. In 1948 he rented Henley Cay
to Robert and Nancy Gibney, the parents of the present owners of
Gibney Beach, who lived there for about a year before building
their permanent home at Hawksnest.
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